![]() ![]() In 2019 this finale would read as nostalgic, but in “The Chanel Obsession,” a 1991 article for Vogue, journalist Jane Kramer linked Lagerfeld’s tenure at Chanel with the rise of Postmodernism. The image distills café society chic in its pure-and still modern-looking-essence. Spectator-style platform sandals and a smile complete her look. Her hair is wrapped in a band, and she’s wearing white pants with a dark top that she’s accessorized with layered strands of pearls. Though undated, it was likely taken in the 1920s or ’30s and shows Mademoiselle sitting on the compact but steely shoulders of her friend dancer Serge Lifar. There were belts with frames holding pictures of her face, but these were nothing compared to the finale for which Lagerfeld brought to life a famous photo of Coco. Corselet-like inserts on suits and as waistbands on skirts further played on the lingerie theme.Ĭoco Chanel, it should be remembered, was a self-invented and self-made woman, and this collection, as all of Lagerfeld’s work for the house, was tied back to her. Cheekier still were the bedazzled bras and thongs worn as bikinis or under fine black knits that hardly inhibited their sparkle. Abbreviated-midriff baring jackets weren’t all that shocking, but skirts with slits and zips designed to reveal matching tweed panties were piquant. Models, teetering on Frederick’s of Hollywood–style platform sandals with spike heels, wore deconstructions of the classics. No one seemed to enjoy pushing good taste to the edge of bad more, and he had a field day with this push and pull at his fall 1995 show. Do share.īy 1995 good taste, which had always been associated with the house of Chanel, was no longer an immutable quality. ![]() These shows might be pre-internet, but they contain many Instagrammable moments. They honor the memory of Karl Lagerfeld, the giant and prolific talent who designed them, and speak to the 2010s obsession with all things 1990s. Williams ended the show in fittingly joyous style, running down the runway to take his bow wearing head-to-toe Damoflage, bringing out the entire Louis Vuitton design team to revel in the moment with him.Editor’s note: Vogue Runway is closing out the decade by adding six archival Chanel shows to our collections archive. I can tell you that Virgil and me being here has to say to kids who look like us, ‘Oh, I can do anything. When he got this appointment, I was really, really happy for him… It was crazy what the connections were, and the respect he had for us, and which we continue to have for him. As far as I’m concerned, I’m collaborating with his spirit. Now, that is literally what we work with here,” he added in a press release. “Virgil has always been a brother in spirit. In his show notes, Williams had paid tribute to “the giant before me” - the late artistic director Virgil Abloh. Williams composed two new pieces for the runway show including “Joy ( Unspeakable)” sung by the Virginia-based choir which was released five days ago, as well as “Peace Be Still” featuring Chinese pianist Lang Lang. The show closed with the Voices of Fire gospel choir chanting, “Joy! Joy! Joy!” with a performance that not only sparked joy, but earned them a standing ovation. Op-ed: Virgil Abloh dissolved ‘barriers of entry’ with joy and optimism ![]() It was also seen on a series of accessories including beanies, bags and baseball caps. A more exaggerated form of the original Damier pattern was also shown on quilted denim jackets, calf-grazing trench coats, leather moto jackets with flared pants and leather jerseys and rugby shirts in brilliant yellow, deep navy and burgundy hues. A pixelated iteration, dubbed “Damoflage,” appeared on floor-sweeping overcoats, matching suits, a collarless tapestry jacket, structured cases and trunks, oversized Speedy bags and backpacks. The checkerboard design, which dates back to 1889, has been reimagined through Williams’ lens. ![]() Pont Neuf was transformed into the Vuitton runway, and featured a continuous strip of the iconic Damier motif that would be heavily woven throughout the collection. Guests met near the Musée D’Orsay, “in front of Rihanna” the PR team told us - referring to the brand’s huge billboard starring the pregnant Barbadian singer - and took a boat down the Seine River to the city’s oldest bridge, at the foot of which the LVMH-owned department store Samaritaine is located. Jared Leto and Kim Kardashian were spotted front row. ![]()
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